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Camper Roof Replacement Chino

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is slid right into has actually retreated from the wall and twisted a little bit - Camper Roof Replacement Chino. I'm thinking the repair service will involve replacing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of bigger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we understood the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The rear bracket setting up is fine, however the front one is broken at the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, to ensure that the top support arm no longer affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Camper Roof Replacement Chino).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it needs to be completely replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand-new back then. If nothing else, we would like recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even obtain us via the summer - without having to place in a brand name brand-new awning! We remain in an extremely severe bind due to the fact that we have a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to locate a fast and efficient remedy. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to eliminate the Motor home awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roofing decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to set on the ground.

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You'll additionally notice how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off initially prior to the last actions of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of exactly how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I really did not in fact need to do this action up until the awning got on the ground yet I discovered this set screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the installing bracket of the awning. As soon as the mounting braces are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally much like a normal item of aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that at the lower side there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing like me, then you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You might have to cut completion with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Then just tug it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went pretty promptly.

When the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) DIRECTS! Once I started to pry off the awning rail, the whole point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground little bit by little by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just moves straight off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When both established screws were eliminated I might move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can remove the old roof covering decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rusty staples holding it down. I pried them out as ideal I could. The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I just pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I can loosen some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I need to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. The roofing system decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass change need to be raised. To lift that, the corner molding have to be eliminated.

I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the very same method, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's just standing out with the staples. The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I've exposed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same bargain once again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and then I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. So I began thoroughly peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roof covering plywood! It is entirely glued.

As soon as I scratched up several of the busted little bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to pull up cleanly unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I could see the steel framing under. Then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roofing was losing strength and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off right before the very first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

The edge of the roofing decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down however glue at this point) and afterwards I can yank out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Camper Roof Replacement Chino. Currently I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no bolts in all holding down the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scuffed up a few of the broken little bits I acquired a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to pull up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation at all. Now I can see the steel framing beneath. But then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that joins the pieces with each other. I don't know exactly how specifically they handled to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The items of roof ply are joined with each other at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly recognized the roof was losing strength and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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