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Chino Rv Camper Repair

Published Jun 10, 25
12 min read

Camper Repair And Service Chino, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything wrong, yet withdrawed both awning simply to be safe. Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the ideal hand end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually pulled away from the wall and turned a bit - Chino Rv Camper Repair. I'm thinking the repair will entail changing that entire length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of larger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We've obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair services, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we recognized the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is fine. The back brace setting up is great, but the front one is fractured at the base and entirely damaged through on top, to ensure that the leading assistance arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio practical? Even the real support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier gray metal - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one item is damaged it has to be entirely changed? The motor home is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand-new during that time. If nothing else, we would like advice regarding exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us with the summertime - without having to place in an all new awning! We remain in an extremely severe bind because we have actually a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or postponed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a quick and efficient remedy. Any individual? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Restoration Series!.?.!! I get on step 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I got rid of the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. Yet in order to eliminate the fourth one, I require to eliminate the motor home awning as well.

In order to change the rubber roof and roof covering decking, I require to eliminate the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll also observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires ahead off initially prior to the final actions of this message (exposing the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Right here's an information of exactly how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually need to do this action till the awning was on the ground yet I observed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, merely draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical edge at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing brace on the right. Getting rid of the placing brace of the awning. When the mounting brackets are separated, it's time to remove the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically similar to a normal piece of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, after that you would not require to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may need to cut completion with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply pull it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) HEADS UP! Once I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was fastened under it. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will instantly break cost-free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground little by little by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually till you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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After that I leaned the legs back against the camper. Once the awning got on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end earlier.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply moves straight off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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Once the 2 set screws were removed I can glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can eliminate the old roof outdoor decking is to expose completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I pried them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some rusty staples quieting. I tore them out as finest I could. The following point holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so again I simply tore up the plastic insert and drew out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up removing it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the edge molding must be removed.

I might turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I could turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I switched from a scrape to a rigid 6 broad putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch broad taping knife. I loosened the other corner trim in the exact same way, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which implies I'll end eliminating those corner trim items all the way down after all. We'll get to that later. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Very same deal once again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much stifling however adhesive now) and afterwards I might tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can draw out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scuffed up several of the broken bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to bring up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framing beneath. After that the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I do not know how specifically they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim items right down nevertheless. However we'll reach that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

The edge of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much quieting but adhesive at this point) and afterwards I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Chino Rv Camper Repair. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I began very carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roofing system plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing started to bring up easily unscathed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Now I could see the steel framework under. After that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that joins the pieces together. I don't recognize how precisely they managed to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly recognized the roofing was losing strength and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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