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Camper Repair Places Near Me Diamond Bar

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Camper Service Center Diamond Bar, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the securing knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything amiss, but pulled back both awning simply to be secure. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rainfall seamless gutter had actually been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the appropriate hand end of the front awning.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually drawn away from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Repair Places Near Me Diamond Bar. I'm assuming the fixing will entail changing that whole length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of larger scale screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair services, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we understood the axle remained in trouble. We have not had the awning out given that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The rear brace assembly is fine, but the front one is fractured at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Does this audio sensible? Also the real support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier grey steel - it's the gray little bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are completely normal/functionalI'm just wishing to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is damaged it needs to be entirely replaced? The RV is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was all new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations regarding just how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - possibly even get us via the summer season - without needing to place in an all new awning! We're in a very major bind because we have a journey planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be altered or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, but I prefer to locate a fast and efficient service. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to set on the ground. First I drew these out. Pushing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise discover just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs ahead off initially before the final steps of this post (exposing the front and back edges of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning mounting braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step up until the awning was on the ground but I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, just pull back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the installing brace of the awning. Once the placing braces are separated, it's time to remove the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally just like a regular item of aluminum roofing edge trim molding other than that near the bottom side there is a round track with a port in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing like me, then you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply tug it out!

When the screws were out I started prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) HEADS UP! Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. When you begin drawing the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were eliminated I might slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded transition had some corroded staples holding it down. I pried them out as best I could. The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once more I simply tore up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might end up removing it later on if I need to change the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the corner molding should be removed.

I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I changed from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened the other edge trim in the very same way, and bent it laterally simply enough so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end removing those corner trim pieces all the method down nevertheless. Yet we'll reach that later. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much quieting but glue at this moment) and then I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Now I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up some of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up easily unscathed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framework underneath. After that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I do not know how precisely they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The items of roof ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roof covering was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off right before the first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish eliminating those edge trim items all the means down besides. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

It's just popping with the staples. Lastly the edge of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Very same bargain once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down but adhesive now) and afterwards I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Repair Places Near Me Diamond Bar. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. I began very carefully peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding back the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

Once I scraped up a few of the broken little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to pull. The entire thing started to draw up cleanly unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framing beneath. But then the plywood started peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I do not recognize exactly how precisely they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly understood the roof was losing stamina and rigidity as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off right before the very first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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