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Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Diamond Bar

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Diamond Bar, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Diamond Bar. I'm assuming the fixing will entail replacing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant repairs, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy experience before we realized the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, and so on, is great. The back brace assembly is great, yet the front one is fractured at the bottom and completely broken through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer fastens to the camper.

Even the actual assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just wanting to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Diamond Bar).

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it needs to be entirely replaced? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as advice regarding just how we can "jerry gear" this for some time - maybe even obtain us through the summer - without needing to put in a new awning! We remain in a very major bind since we have actually a journey prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to locate a fast and efficient option. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Improvement Series!.?.!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roof trim molding from three sides of the roofing system. In order to remove the fourth one, I require to remove the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roof decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally notice exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off initially before the final steps of this article (revealing the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's a detail of how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this action until the awning was on the ground however I noticed this set screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went in advance and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply pull back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing brace on the right. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning. As soon as the mounting braces are separated, it's time to remove the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is basically similar to a routine item of light weight aluminum roof edge trim molding other than that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing system like me, then you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's just like removing the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Pull out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just pull it out.

You might need to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Then just pull it out! Once the plastic screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather swiftly.

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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When the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you begin pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side individually until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just slides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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Once the 2 set screws were removed I can move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roofing system outdoor decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I could unscrew some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later if I require to change the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the corner molding need to be gotten rid of.

Then I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scrape to a rigid 6 vast putty blade. This item cracked out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. Then I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the same means, and curved it sideways just enough so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end removing those corner trim items all the means down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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It's just popping through the staples. The edge of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Exact same offer once more. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling but adhesive now) and after that I could tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I started carefully peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners in any way holding back the roof covering plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scratched up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to draw up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not know how exactly they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roof ply are joined together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roofing was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off right before the first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which means I'll finish eliminating those edge trim items all the means down. We'll get to that later on. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

It's simply standing out through the staples. Ultimately the edge of the roofing decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the leading edge. Very same offer once again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much holding it down but adhesive at this moment) and then I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Pop Up Camper Repair Near Me Diamond Bar. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Diamond Bar, CA

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I began meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no bolts at all holding back the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scuffed up some of the busted bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the pieces together. I don't recognize how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roof covering was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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