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Camper Roof Replacement East Irvine

Published Jun 11, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair And Service East Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall and twisted a little bit - Camper Roof Replacement East Irvine. I'm assuming the fixing will entail replacing that whole size of rain gutter (10 feet?) and probably using bigger gauge screws to change those that were taken out

We have actually got busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride prior to we recognized the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is fine. The rear brace assembly is fine, yet the front one is broken at the base and entirely appeared at the top, to make sure that the top assistance arm no more affixes to the camper. We are in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Even the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Camper Roof Replacement East Irvine).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is broken it has to be totally replaced? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand brand-new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even get us through the summertime - without needing to place in a brand-new awning! We're in a very major bind since we have actually a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or postponed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I would certainly rather discover a quick and effective remedy. Anyone? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I need to remove the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground. First I pulled these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally observe just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off first before the final steps of this message (exposing the front and back edges of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Here's a detail of how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this step till the awning was on the ground yet I observed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the right end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the spherical corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing bracket on the right. Removing the installing brace of the awning. When the placing brackets are detached, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily simply like a routine item of light weight aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a port in it.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roof covering like me, then you would not need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Currently it's similar to removing the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just tug it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Just tug it out!

Once the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the way versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When the two established screws were eliminated I can move the whole awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The next point holding down the rv fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

Nonetheless I might finish up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass change. The roofing system decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass transition need to be raised. To raise that, the corner molding need to be removed.

Then I might turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that factor I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the other corner trim in the very same method, and curved it laterally simply sufficient so that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which means I'll finish getting rid of those corner trim items all the means down besides. Yet we'll get to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

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The side of the roofing outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much quieting however glue at this moment) and after that I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scuffed up several of the busted little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to pull up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation whatsoever. Now I might see the steel framing under. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the items together. I do not understand how specifically they managed to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof was shedding toughness and tightness as I drew up the leading layer, so cracked it off just prior to the initial joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

It's simply popping through the staples. The side of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the leading edge. Very same deal once again. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up also (there had not been much stifling yet glue at this point) and afterwards I can tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Camper Roof Replacement East Irvine. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the busted little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I might see the steel framing underneath. Then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel reinforced tape under that joins the items with each other. I don't understand just how precisely they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly recognized the roofing was losing stamina and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off just prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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