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Camper Repair Garden Grove

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Camper Services Garden Grove, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I really did not see anything awry, but pulled back both awning simply to be risk-free. Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the rain gutter had actually been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing out on) on the best hand end of the front awning.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has actually drawn away from the wall surface and turned a little bit - Camper Repair Garden Grove. I'm thinking the repair will require changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually obtained broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip prior to we recognized the axle was in problem. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime system, etc, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, yet the front one is split at the base and entirely broken through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Also the real assistance arms are intact. They are white steel (? The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just desiring to make sure we're not being taken in out of our desperation (Camper Repair Garden Grove).

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, but we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also get us with the summer season - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather locate a fast and efficient solution. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Renovation Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. Yet in order to remove the 4th one, I require to remove the motor home awning too.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof covering outdoor decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off initially before the last steps of this post (revealing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).

Below's an information of exactly how the awning mounting brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't really need to do this action till the awning was on the ground however I saw this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the appropriate end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, just draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws removed from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the installing bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're simply changing your awning and not fixing the entire roof like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's much like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that simply tug it out.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber beneath.) DIRECTS! As soon as I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you begin drawing the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were removed I can slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I tore them out as best I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some rustic staples stifling. I tore them out as finest I could. The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply pried up the plastic insert and pulled out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass change. To lift that, the edge molding must be removed.

Then I could turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I might turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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At that point I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the same means, and bent it sidewards just enough so that I can raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a considerable quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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It's simply standing out through the staples. Lastly the side of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge. Same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling but adhesive at this point) and afterwards I might tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can draw out the last little rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know how specifically they managed to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roof ply are collaborated at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roof was losing toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which implies I'll finish removing those corner trim pieces all the way down. But we'll reach that later. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roofing system decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling but glue at this moment) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Camper Repair Garden Grove. Currently I can draw out the last bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I started meticulously peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding back the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up several of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing began to bring up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Currently I could see the steel framing underneath. But then the plywood began peeling off up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the assemble. I do not recognize just how specifically they managed to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was losing toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off just before the very first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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