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Rv Camper Repair Santa Ana

Published Jun 09, 25
11 min read

Camper Roof Repair Near Me Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has pulled away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Rv Camper Repair Santa Ana. I'm assuming the repair service will require changing that whole length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using larger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We have actually obtained broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major repair work, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we realized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring mechanism, etc, is fine. The rear brace assembly is fine, yet the front one is split at the base and totally broken through at the top, so that the top support arm no much longer fastens to the camper.

Does this sound practical? Even the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a heavier gray steel - it's the grey bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply desiring to make certain we're not being taken in out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it needs to be entirely replaced? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was all new back then. If nothing else, we would like suggestions regarding exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - perhaps even obtain us through the summertime - without having to place in a brand brand-new awning! We're in a very severe bind since we have actually a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a fast and reliable option. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Collection!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roof covering. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof outdoor decking, I need to remove the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to establish on the ground. I pulled these out. Pressing this bar launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally see how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially before the final actions of this post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Here's an information of exactly how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I really did not actually have to do this action up until the awning was on the ground yet I discovered this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went in advance and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just pull back on the brace. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roof.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the installing brace of the awning.

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To replace the roofing, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the whole roofing like me, then you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Now it's much like eliminating the side trim molding on the other side of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might have to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and afterwards just yank it out.

You might have to cut the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Just pull it out!

When the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) DIRECTS! Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be torn up. As soon as you begin pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just slides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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Once the two established screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated.

The next thing holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once more I just tore up the vinyl insert and pulled out sufficient so I might loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might finish up removing it later if I require to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roofing system outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass change need to be raised. To raise that, the corner molding should be eliminated.

After that I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I switched over from a scrape to a stiff 6 vast putty blade. This piece broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I switched from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. After that I loosened up the various other corner trim in the same means, and bent it laterally just sufficient to ensure that I could raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a significant amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roof covering deck.

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The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

Once I scraped up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to pull up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't understand how precisely they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly realized the roof was losing toughness and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off simply prior to the very first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a significant quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

It's simply standing out with the staples. Lastly the side of the roof outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! I've exposed the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to find the front edge. Very same deal again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much stifling yet glue at this moment) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Rv Camper Repair Santa Ana. Currently I can draw out the last bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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Camper Repair Near Me Santa Ana, CACamper Service And Repair Santa Ana, CA


I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. So I began very carefully peeling it up. I could see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners in any way holding back the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing started to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the items with each other. I do not recognize how precisely they handled to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was losing stamina and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the first joint. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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