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Camper Awning Repair Silverado

Published May 27, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has retreated from the wall and turned a little bit - Camper Awning Repair Silverado. I'm assuming the repair work will entail changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using larger gauge screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repairs, etc, and we question if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we understood the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is great, yet the front one is cracked at the bottom and entirely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Does this sound practical? Also the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier gray steel - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one item is damaged it has to be completely changed? The RV is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was all new back then. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly such as suggestions regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for some time - maybe even get us with the summer - without having to place in a brand name new awning! We're in an extremely serious bind because we have a journey planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or held off.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to discover a fast and effective remedy. Anybody? Please!.

Welcome to my RV Remodelling Collection!.?.!! I get on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof covering trim molding from three sides of the roof. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to remove the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roof and roofing outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground. First I drew these out. Pushing this lever launches the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off first before the final steps of this blog post (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing decking).

Below's an information of just how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really have to do this step until the awning was on the ground however I observed this set screw here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply pull back on the bracket. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the motor home awning mounting brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the right. Removing the placing brace of the awning. As soon as the mounting braces are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is primarily similar to a routine piece of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, then you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's just like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may have to cut the end with an utility blade if it is put under the rail) and after that just pull it out.

You may need to cut the end with an energy blade if it is covered under. After that just tug it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went quite quickly.

Once the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will instantly snap complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the right end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just slides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once the two set screws were eliminated I might slide the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The next thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass home siding panels is the corner trim molding shown here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so again I just tore up the vinyl insert and drew out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might wind up removing it later on if I require to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. The roof decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift must be raised. To lift that, the corner molding should be eliminated.

After that I might swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scraper to a stiff 6 wide putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was attempting to tear it up. At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. Then I loosened the various other corner trim in the same means, and curved it laterally simply sufficient to ensure that I could raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling however glue at this factor) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The entire thing started to draw up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that joins the pieces with each other. I do not understand exactly how exactly they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing system ply are joined with each other at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof was shedding stamina and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off just prior to the very first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which indicates I'll end getting rid of those corner trim pieces completely down nevertheless. Yet we'll reach that later. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

It's just popping via the staples. Lastly the side of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roofing substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the front side. Exact same offer again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Camper Awning Repair Silverado. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Awning Repair Silverado, CA

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scraped up a few of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The entire point began to draw up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framework beneath. Then the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the pieces together. I do not understand just how precisely they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The items of roof ply are signed up with together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roof covering was shedding stamina and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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