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Camper Repair Tustin

Published Jun 11, 25
11 min read

Rv Camper Repair Tustin, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rain gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually pulled away from the wall surface and turned a bit - Camper Repair Tustin. I'm assuming the fixing will entail changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably utilizing larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We've obtained damaged brackets on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant repair work, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, yet the front one is split at the base and completely broken through at the top, so that the top support arm no more attaches to the camper. We are in difficulty. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger gray steel - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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The Motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly even get us via the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to locate a fast and reliable remedy. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I require to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof outdoor decking, I need to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise discover how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to come off initially prior to the final actions of this article (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Here's an information of exactly how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this step till the awning was on the ground yet I noticed this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the huge lag screws that hold the RV awning installing brackets to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning installing bracket on the. Removing the mounting brace of the awning.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Here's a consider the circular channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's simply like getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Draw out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is put under the rail) and then just pull it out.

You may have to reduce completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Then simply yank it out! As soon as the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty quickly.

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber underneath.) HEADS UP! When I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire point suddenly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was secured under it. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that decrease it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I removed the little set screw at the right end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end earlier.) These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply slides straight off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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When both set screws were eliminated I can slide the whole awning rail straight off the awning. Another look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can get rid of the old roofing system outdoor decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some corroded staples quieting. I pried them out as ideal I could. The next thing holding back the rv fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so again I simply tore up the vinyl insert and took out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass change. To lift that, the corner molding have to be gotten rid of.

I can swing the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I changed from a scrape to a rigid 6 broad putty knife. This item damaged out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that point I changed from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the exact same way, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. Lastly the side of the roofing system outdoor decking is exposed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've revealed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the leading edge. Very same offer again. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much quieting but adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Currently I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up a few of the damaged bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to bring up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Currently I might see the steel framing underneath. But after that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the base that signs up with the items together. I don't recognize how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined together at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly recognized the roofing system was shedding toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so broke it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The edge of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Once again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much quieting however adhesive at this moment) and after that I could yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Camper Repair Tustin. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners in all holding back the roof plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scratched up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape on the base that signs up with the pieces with each other. I do not understand exactly how precisely they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roofing system was shedding stamina and tightness as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Below's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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