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Many campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.
It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided into has retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Repair Shop Villa Park. I'm thinking the repair work will entail changing that entire length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out
We have actually obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. 2 months earlier, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant repair work, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride before we realized the axle was in problem. We haven't had the awning out considering that it was in the store to be repaired.
The awning itself, springtime mechanism, etc, is great. The back brace assembly is great, but the front one is fractured near the bottom and entirely broken through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper. We remain in problem. I don't want/like to camp without it.
Does this sound sensible? Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger grey metal - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply wishing to make sure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.
Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one piece is damaged it has to be entirely changed? The motor home is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new during that time. If nothing else, we would like suggestions regarding how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps even get us through the summertime - without having to put in a new awning! We remain in an extremely significant bind since we have a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or held off.
If we have to go awning-less, we will, however I prefer to discover a quick and reliable service. Any individual? Please!.
Welcome to my RV Remodelling Series!.?.!! I get on action 5 of changing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I eliminated the roof trim molding from three sides of the roofing. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to remove the Motor home awning.
In order to change the rubber roof covering and roof outdoor decking, I require to remove the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground.
You'll also notice just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to come off initially before the final actions of this post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system decking).
Right here's an information of exactly how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not in fact have to do this action up until the awning got on the ground yet I noticed this set screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.
Once both screws are removed, merely draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the spherical corner at the back of the roofing.
Both lag screws removed from the awning mounting brace on the. Removing the placing bracket of the awning. When the placing brackets are removed, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is essentially similar to a regular piece of light weight aluminum roof side trim molding other than that at the bottom side there is a circular track with a slot in it.
To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. Right here's a look at the circular channel at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing system like me, after that you would not need to remove the awning rail.
Dropping the legs a few notches to lower the whole awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.
You may have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is covered under. Simply tug it out!
When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will certainly be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) HEADS UP! As soon as I began to tear off the awning rail, the entire thing unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.
Simply know it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was secured under it. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.
This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time up until you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and out of the method versus the camper.
I leaned the legs back versus the camper. Once the awning was on the ground I removed the little collection screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the entire rail to one side.
Once the two established screws were removed I could glide the whole awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.
I pried them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded shift had some corroded staples stifling. I tore them out as ideal I could. The following thing holding down the motor home fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I simply pried up the plastic insert and pulled out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.
I might finish up removing it later if I need to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. The roofing system outdoor decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift have to be raised. To raise that, the corner molding must be gotten rid of.
I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I might turn that item of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.
At that point I changed from a scraper to 6 inch large taping knife. I loosened up the various other edge trim in the exact same way, and bent it sidewards simply sufficient so that I can lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.
I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which means I'll end getting rid of those corner trim pieces all the means down nevertheless. We'll get to that later on. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.
It's just popping via the staples. The edge of the roofing decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Very same bargain once again. Get rid of some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.
Once again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling yet adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I might pull out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.
I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!
As soon as I scratched up some of the broken little bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing began to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.
There is a steel enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the items together. I don't understand how precisely they managed to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I quickly understood the roofing system was shedding strength and rigidity as I drew up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the initial joint. A close of the metal framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.
I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which implies I'll end removing those corner trim items completely down nevertheless. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.
It's just popping through the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing decking is subjected at the rear of the camper! OK! So I have actually subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge. Exact same deal once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.
Once more, I pried that layer up too (there had not been much stifling but adhesive now) and then I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Repair Shop Villa Park. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood
I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I began meticulously peeling it up. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.
Once I scratched up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.
There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I do not know how precisely they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.
I quickly realized the roofing was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off prior to the very first seam. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.
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